Per Se: The Art of Dining

There are only a handful of restaurants in the world that redefine “eating out” to an experience all of its own. Per Se belongs in that highly selective group. To review a restaurant such as Per Se would not require a review of its food. The chef, Thomas Keller, has risen above criticism with his restaurants and has turned the restaurant experience into an attraction. Eating at Per Se is equivalent to a night at Carnegie Hall or Lincoln Center. You don’t go to a restaurant like Per Se because it is Wednesday or because you are simply hungry. You go to Per Se because it is Per Se. Therefore as far as setting the bar is concerned we can easily place this restaurant at the top.

My experience with the restaurant was just as I expected. We were met with all smiles a beautiful view of Columbus Circle. But its perhaps only strike comes at this part: The atmosphere is not ideal for the culinary experience it provides. Beginning with an overly elegant bar area, overgrown with lounge furniture that was never used throughout the four hours I was there for dinner, and ending with unimpressive dinning room split by a step into an upper and lower level which creates more of directional view to the window. A restaurant of this caliber should have a space worthy of its cuisine, and in its current design, Per Se does not live up to that responsibility.

But moving beyond the visual space the meal itself was in that rare ideal category. The only requirement for guests is that you do not bring food prejudices with you and prepare to try a variety of tastes. The nine course tasting menu guides you in a culinary voyage that can best be described as both creative and extraordinary, leaving you every bit satisfied at its conclusion (a time when your server will bring you a plethora of complimentary deserts to try as well as cookies to take home for the following day). It would be pointless to describe any specific dish served the night I went as the dishes change pretty regularly. But what you can expect is a combination of fish and meat dishes with some very interesting experimental presentations. These changes are attributed to Keller’s belief in the Law of Diminishing Returns which states that nothing is as good as it is the first time it is tasted, thus both nine course menus (chief tasting and vegetarian) express the chef’s commitment to exploring the new. As a frequenter of New York City restaurants I can attest to that commitment.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 5 Straws (a truly rare culinary find and one that will leave you remembering it for days after).

Price: $$$$$traws, Extremely Expensive (9 course tasting menu price starts at $275.00 for dinner and 5 course tasting menu price starts at $175 for lunch).

Atmosphere: Elegant (best for really special occasions and long formal events).

Overall: Five Straws (this is a once in a life time experience).

The Details:

Website: http://www.perseny.com/

Location: Time Warner Center (10 Columbus Circle, 60th st), 4th Floor, Manhattan, New York.

Phone: 212-823-9335

Reservation: Absolutely necessary and hard to obtain. Open Table.

Dress: Jacket required, tie is optional.

Hours:

Friday- Sunday: 11:30am- 1:30pm Lunch, 5:30pm- 10:00pm

Saturday: 5:30pm- 10:00pm