For the rebirth of Coffee Straws the Popover Cafe was chosen for a dual review. The Coffee Straws team met in NYC last weekend and as the resident New Yorker I had to select Popover as our Saturday brunch/lunch spot to discuss the return of CS. While at this brunch we (for obvious reasons) selected Popover as our special return review. What makes this a special review? That is where the duel review part comes in. Both members of the CS team will be sharing their thoughts on this historic UWS landmark.
Personally I’ve avoided reviewing Popover because it is such an established locale of my neighborhood but as is the tradition of New York, all traditions need to be evaluated. Now I know I will probably have a bias when reviewing this place unlike Washdcgirl who experienced for the first time this past weekend. Regardless, let’s dive into this review.
Now it goes without saying that at the center of the Popover Cafe is the Popover, which is tricky to define, eggy, bread pudding-esque accompaniment served with strawberry butter and now strawberry jam too apparently. If for nothing else, the experience of indulging in one of these makes the journey here worth it. This is arguably the best brunch amenity I’ve ever seen come with a meal, though you can also order them on their own.
Popover’s menu is another tradition of its own. Each different section has its own time frame of service making it potentially difficult to navigate for first timers. The Griddle (where you can find various breakfast favorites such as challah bread French toast and whole wheat flapjacks) ends at 11am on weekdays but goes until 5pm on weekends (a perfect length for weekend brunches). The morning specialty, one might say, of Popover is their Eggcetera menu. This portion of the menu consists of all their egg based dishes including many uniquely named omelets as well as specialty items such as the special scramble with smoked salmon and cream cheese and the famous flopover (an eggy crape filled with various sliced fruits and topped with sour cream). To top that off, egg fans will find that this part of the menu is all day long.
Once that afternoon hour arrives (well actually starting at 11:30) the sandwich and salad options become available. Here is where the tradition and personal adoration comes in because I can mark my own history by what I would order growing up. When I was younger I loved the breakfast menu, in particular the flopover and the French toast options. But as I grew up I discovered the Special Scramble (see above) and the lunch options. Some favorites include: The Mad Russian (ham, turkey, gruyere and Russian dressing), The Granny (akaTAB) (Turkey, apples, bacon, cheddar and a raisin-horseradish dressing), and Sandy’s Favorite (classic BLT with a hardboiled egg and Russian dressing). And that is only a taste of their sandwich/melt options. On the salad front their portions are huge and they are extremely flexible with ingredients.
Here I must confess, though I am a lifetime patron of Popover, I have yet to visit for the evening menu. Personally I believe that that is due to my love of their signature item, the popover, and I have some reservations against eating it at night (it’s like mimosas and lox and bagels, these are morning items!). So in some ways this review is incomplete or better put it is only concerning the breakfast/brunch/lunch aspects of the establishment.
Overall this deserves its place in the list of hotspots of the Upper West Side and furthermore is my go to place when entertaining visitors to the city, example being Washdcgirl’s visit last weekend.
Quick Note: As a local I am very good at avoiding the line waits but if you waltz in to Popover at brunch time on a weekend during the year (summer always sees many New Yorkers leave for the weekends) expect a LONG wait with you waiting outside because the entire (tiny) waiting area is filled, ironically mostly with strollers. But it is worth the wait, I promise you that.
The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):
Food: 4 straws (The choices are all infused with a unique touch, the menu is evolving over time, and with the addition of the unique creation that is the popover this need that fourth straw).
Price: $$traws, Moderate price ($15 to $20 will cover the average brunch of a popover, coffee, and a main course).
Atmosphere: Relaxed yet bustling. There is no question that Popover is popular and because they don’t do reservations the waiting area can get hectic and cramped. But the dining areas themselves are somewhat spacious for an NYC restaurant and the décor echoes the age of the restaurant.
Overall: 4 straws (There is no question that were someone to ask me for recommendations of places to eat at while in New York I would strongly recommend if not demand that they go here for brunch. This brunch is in it of itself an experience for visitors and yet has that familiarity for locals. Do not leave New York without eating here.)
The Details:
Website: http://www.popovercafe.com/index.html
Location: 551 Amsterdam Ave (corner of 87th).
Phone: (212) 757-2277
Reservation: No reservations and come expecting to wait if going during meal times, especially brunch.
Dress: Casual.
Hours:
Weekdays: 8:00am- 10:00pm
Weekends: 9:00am- 10:00pm