Georgia’s Cafe: French in the Wrong Way

From a far Georgia’s Cafe appears to be a symbol of the new Broadway in the 80s and 90s. Its full service kitchen and waiter service tables signals the new type of cafe scene propping up in replace of the New York classic delis. The Columbia region always had its outdoor dining and so did the heart of the Upper West Side in the 60s and 70s. But poor old Broadway in the 80s and 90s throughout most of the 1990s was missing out (caution: don’t get confused between street references versus date references as I just did). That’s not to say that here and there there were restaurants without door seating (French Roast and the now deceased Time Cafe always did) but they remained full restaurants, they weren’t sit-and-have-a-cup-of-coffee places. Georgia’s Cafe is just that, you can sit for hours, undisturbed, and enjoy a decent (emphasis on decent) coffee.

Outside Facade View of Georgia's Cafe

When Georgia’s opened a few years back I really wanted it to succeed. I am one who fell in love with the cafe culture while studying abroad in Paris and was excited to see it migrate to the Upper West Side finally. As good as Starbucks “can” be, I would much rather be at a place where I am served coffee in a real cup, maybe have something to eat, and be able to work without interruption.

But as much as Georgia’s attempts to fulfill this void, it falls short. Arguably its biggest offense, and what makes it the least French, is that most of its food is premade. Now I cannot tell you how frustrating it is to be told you cannot get something without cheese because it has already been made, especially when you are on a diet. Second is the fact that these premade sandwiches cost more than the ones offered at Starbucks (and frankly I don’t really see a difference since they are both made not to order). Thirdly, though their coffee is decent (and by decent I mean acceptable but not sought after) their wine list is a joke. I dream of the day that a cafe can hold its own with both the morning and afternoon crowd, Georgia’s can’t.

Lastly, and here is what the title refers to, their service is utterly frustrating to deal with. Yes it is really nice to be left alone while reading or working, but not while trying to actually pay and leave. Their staff needs to be a lot more attentive of the needs of the diner. When I am looking up and around while holding my wallet that probably means I’m ready to go. This last comment also was inspired by the simple fact that I had to ask for water as well.

The first time I was there was at breakfast time, a time when Georgia’s provides nothing for the dieter except an extremely over priced fruit plate. But as I research now for this review I’ve noticed no fruit plate on the menu so perhaps they’ve removed their only dietetic option. The second and third time I visited I had lunch. The first time I ordered the special penne with tomato and mozzarella, as is (I wasn’t dieting then) and found it enjoyable. They didn’t over do the dish and kept it simple. The most recent visit however was when I discovered that their sandwiches were all premade (I tried to order the grilled chicken breast without feta cheese and was turned down). Thus I had to settle for the $13 Caesar salad with balsamic vinegar on the side. The salad was certainly an entree size if not too big (neither my friend nor I could finish our meals).

All in all it is a leg up from reading at a Starbucks but if I was looking to eat lunch while working I would choose Edgar’s Cafe instead.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 2 straws (The special pasta was alright but they need to work on their sandwich options).

Price: $$$traws, Expensive price ($20 will cover the average lunch but $30 and over will have to cover an average dinner).

Atmosphere: Pleasant and cute. This part they have down. It is easy to work or read without getting distracted here. In the winter it’s soothing to walk in out of the cold and find a table with a warm cup of coffee while in the summer they have outdoor seating with enough space to enjoy an ice coffee.

Overall: 2 straws (The atmosphere does not make up for the frustrating staff and disappointing food. Georgia’s I challenge you to do better: increase your wine selection by adding more exotic (South African wines are really excellent these days, as our South American wines from Chile or Argentina) and local choices (since Vineyard closed we need a good place to get NY wines), make your sandwiches as they are ordered and increase your salad options (make some originals), greatly increase your tapas menu and avoid the boring typical choices (a cheese plate with parmesan, manchego, and brie, can you get more typical than that?), and after you do all that perhaps you can give Cleopatra’s Needle a run for their money with a better (and younger) evening scene.)

The Details:

Website: N/A

Location: 2418 Broadway (corner of 89th).

Phone: (212) 362-2000

Reservation: I have never needed one. But I have been there when it is full. Perhaps call ahead of time if you are going during peak dining hours.

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Weekdays: 7:30am- 9:30pm

Weekends: 8:00am- 9:30pm

Pink Pony: The (Possible) Beginning of a Beautiful Friendship

One problem with getting too comfortable with your favorite brunch places is that you become unwilling to try something new. In my case it’s the allure of Popover, its close by, amazing, and it has popovers. But the reality is that there are many upon many of possible locations for brunch in this city. Recently I was invited to brunch with three friends in the Lower East Side, a place I have frequented at night many times but rarely in the morning for brunch. The Pink Pony was my friends pick.

Before I begin the review I have to again mention that this review reflects only the establishment’s brunch menu, not its dinner service or entertainment.  Here is where the title comes in; I was very intrigued by both the restaurants atmosphere and its menu’s suggestiveness of the late night scene this place may sponsor. So before I even get to the brunch experience I can already say I will be returning during the evening hours to experience the other side of the Pink Pony.

The brunch menu was comprised of mostly omelets with the traditional pancakes, French toast, and granola with fruit. As you may know if you’ve been following my posts I have started a diet. This is one of those super diets where should you chose to go out you become that pain in the ass patron who orders one thing that turns into something completely different. Anyway… I went into this brunch with that concept in mind and began that excruciating process of selecting an item on the menu and turning it into the healthiest (tasteless) dish possible. And to my pleasant surprise this was not difficult at all. Yes the place does egg whites and yes they allow substitutions. I ordered the spinach and cheese omelet without the cheese and egg whites only. It was delicious and came complete with a side salad. Coffee wasn’t bad though they didn’t refill it (not a good trait). In fact the service in general wasn’t exactly speedy, but wasn’t exactly slow either. It was very much a laissez-fair style of service, giving us the time and space to eat and socialize at our own pace.

Overall we were all satisfied with our meals and left planning on returning (at a different hour though). If I lived in the area I could see myself choosing this as a brunch to patronize but seeing that it is a little far away for the morning meal I would rather choose Popover or Edgar. That being said it was at a far better price range than the Upper West Side locales. Lastly, and keep in mind this is speculation, the Pink Pony appears to be one of those select few places that is attempting (and maybe succeeding) at providing both for the morning and evening crowd. We will soon see if that’s true.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 3 Straws (They met my needs, the group was satisfied, and the food good).

Price: $traws, Cheapish price (about $13 for a main course and a beverage which was enough for me but were this a weekend brunch visit I would have wanted to order more).

Atmosphere: Quiet and personal. We were given a corner by the window and we were left alone with plenty of space to enjoy our meals. The décor is something to see, it is reminiscent of the hidden cafes of Montmartre in Paris. I am excited to see what it is like at night.

Overall: 3 Straws (Very satisfying brunch and it left me wanting to come back to experience the Pink Pony evening).

The Details:

Website: http://www.pinkponynyc.com/index.html

Location: 176 Ludlow Street, between E Houston and Stanton Street.

Phone: (212) 253-1922

Reservation: We didn’t need one and it didn’t seem like one would.

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Daily: 10:00am- 2:00am

Popover Cafe: Brunch’s UWS home.

For the rebirth of Coffee Straws the Popover Cafe was chosen for a dual review. The Coffee Straws team met in NYC last weekend and as the resident New Yorker I had to select Popover as our Saturday brunch/lunch spot to discuss the return of CS. While at this brunch we (for obvious reasons) selected Popover as our special return review. What makes this a special review? That is where the duel review part comes in. Both members of the CS team will be sharing their thoughts on this historic UWS landmark.

Personally I’ve avoided reviewing Popover because it is such an established locale of my neighborhood but as is the tradition of New York, all traditions need to be evaluated. Now I know I will probably have a bias when reviewing this place unlike Washdcgirl who experienced for the first time this past weekend. Regardless, let’s dive into this review.

Now it goes without saying that at the center of the Popover Cafe is the Popover, which is tricky to define, eggy, bread pudding-esque accompaniment served with strawberry butter and now strawberry jam too apparently. If for nothing else, the experience of indulging in one of these makes the journey here worth it. This is arguably the best brunch amenity I’ve ever seen come with a meal, though you can also order them on their own.

Popover’s menu is another tradition of its own. Each different section has its own time frame of service making it potentially difficult to navigate for first timers. The Griddle (where you can find various breakfast favorites such as challah bread French toast and whole wheat flapjacks) ends at 11am on weekdays but goes until 5pm on weekends (a perfect length for weekend brunches). The morning specialty, one might say, of Popover is their Eggcetera menu. This portion of the menu consists of all their egg based dishes including many uniquely named omelets as well as specialty items such as the special scramble with smoked salmon and cream cheese and the famous flopover (an eggy crape filled with various sliced fruits and topped with sour cream). To top that off, egg fans will find that this part of the menu is all day long.

Once that afternoon hour arrives (well actually starting at 11:30) the sandwich and salad options become available. Here is where the tradition and personal adoration comes in because I can mark my own history by what I would order growing up. When I was younger I loved the breakfast menu, in particular the flopover and the French toast options. But as I grew up I discovered the Special Scramble (see above) and the lunch options. Some favorites include: The Mad Russian (ham, turkey, gruyere and Russian dressing), The Granny (akaTAB) (Turkey, apples, bacon, cheddar and a raisin-horseradish dressing), and Sandy’s Favorite (classic BLT with a hardboiled egg and Russian dressing). And that is only a taste of their sandwich/melt options. On the salad front their portions are huge and they are extremely flexible with ingredients.

Here I must confess, though I am a lifetime patron of Popover, I have yet to visit for the evening menu. Personally I believe that that is due to my love of their signature item, the popover, and I have some reservations against eating it at night (it’s like mimosas and lox and bagels, these are morning items!). So in some ways this review is incomplete or better put it is only concerning the breakfast/brunch/lunch aspects of the establishment.

Overall this deserves its place in the list of hotspots of the Upper West Side and furthermore is my go to place when entertaining visitors to the city, example being Washdcgirl’s visit last weekend.

Quick Note: As a local I am very good at avoiding the line waits but if you waltz in to Popover at brunch time on a weekend during the year (summer always sees many New Yorkers leave for the weekends) expect a LONG wait with you waiting outside because the entire (tiny) waiting area is filled, ironically mostly with strollers. But it is worth the wait, I promise you that.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 4 straws (The choices are all infused with a unique touch, the menu is evolving over time, and with the addition of the unique creation that is the popover this need that fourth straw).

Price: $$traws, Moderate price ($15 to $20 will cover the average brunch of a popover, coffee, and a main course).

Atmosphere: Relaxed yet bustling. There is no question that Popover is popular and because they don’t do reservations the waiting area can get hectic and cramped. But the dining areas themselves are somewhat spacious for an NYC restaurant and the décor echoes the age of the restaurant.

Overall: 4 straws (There is no question that were someone to ask me for recommendations of places to eat at while in New York I would strongly recommend if not demand that they go here for brunch. This brunch is in it of itself an experience for visitors and yet has that familiarity for locals. Do not leave New York without eating here.)

The Details:

Website: http://www.popovercafe.com/index.html

Location: 551 Amsterdam Ave (corner of 87th).

Phone: (212) 757-2277

Reservation: No reservations and come expecting to wait if going during meal times, especially brunch.

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Weekdays: 8:00am- 10:00pm

Weekends: 9:00am- 10:00pm

Five Napkin Burger: America on 9th avenue in the theater district

In its current incarnation, the theater district, though always touristy, has expanded to encompass (in its overly crowded and well-nigh impassable streets) not just 7th and Broadway but now 8th and almost 9th as well. 8th avenue has now for a while been touristized, don’t come here for XXX shops and cheap one night stands anymore, this has become part of Broadway. And because of its transformation, the more student budget eating as well as the more interesting and diverse culinary locales have moved to 9th avenue. That all being said the subject of this review is a relatively new joint on 45th and 9th. Five Napkin Burger opened earlier this summer and though at first glance may appear to be that tourist trap locale we have become accustomed to in this area, it has far more depth to it.

My experience at this restaurant was typical for a Wednesday night in Time Square. We were on the hunt for a place that would offer us a pre-theater dinner at a reasonable price that wouldn’t just be to fill our hungry bellies but would also entertain us for that portion of the evening. Now entertain is a hefty word, it could have so many possibilities therefore let me clarify a little better. We had met up at 6:30 and had nothing to do until 8 when the curtain went up, an hour and a half is a long time to wait, especially after a long day of work. Thus we used Open Table’s mobile option and found what was described as a classic burger joint, perfect for a burger and beer in the early evening of a bustling city.

Upon reaching our destination we were lucky enough to be seated right away at a table for two fashioned in the very popular Parisian style of both seats on one side of the table, thus allowing us to both enjoy the people watching (which, if I might add, was in full swing and highly entertaining as 9th ave never ceases to deliver a diverse assortment of personalities). Our server was more than jovial and provided us with everything we needed, including good unique beer recommendations. Now as provided by the name of the establishment I ordered the Five Napkin Burger and was thus presented with nothing less than a burger that required five napkins to be enjoyed. I can promise you a mess with this meal, there is no avoiding it. But should you be seeking an enjoyable, large, well sided burger with the accompaniment of a unique Five Napkin brew then this is the place for you.

I went out that evening looking for a place that would certainly not feel stuffy or speedy (as is the style of the tourist traps of Time Square) that would also feed us well. I found it five fold (or five folded napkins) with Five Napkin Burger.

Be advised: do not engage in the eating of the Five Napkin Burger if you are sensitive to making a mess with your food while eating with your hands.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 2.5 Straws (The burger was good but our appetizer (warm artichoke and mozzarella dip) was only okay).

Price: $$$traws, Expensive price (about $30 or an appetizer, main course, and a bottle of beer).

Atmosphere: Noisy and friendly, the dining room looked noisy and crowded but where we were, outside, was comfortable (we weren’t crammed into the sidewalk space like you see in other restaurants, they had only one row of tables).

Overall: 3 Straws (We felt like bringing it up the extra half straw for the friendly staff who both demonstrated concern for providing us with everything we wanted and engagement with communicating with us. Overall an enjoyable experience and one I will remember next time I am in the area to see a show).

The Details:

Website: n/a

Location: 630 9th Avenue (corner of 45th & 9th).

Phone: (212) 757-2277

Reservation: We didn’t need one but the place did look crowded, based on my observations of the dining room I would suggest making one, especially since they participate with Open Table.

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Weekdays:11:00am- 4:00pm Lunch, 4:00pm-12:00am Dinner.

Weekends: 11:00am- 4:00pm Brunch, 4:00pm-12:00am Dinner.

The Old Mill: A real world Cheers experience

To expand the Coffee Straws reach we have begun looking at the unique places that lay outside of major urban centers. Good food and fun does not have to be situated within a bustling city all the time and the places soon to be reviewed are a testament to what can be found when you leave the hustle and bustle of city life. The first in this series of not so urban culinary locales is The Old Mill, a local favorite of South Egremont, Massachusetts. I should make a note of clarity at the beginning here that I have not had the pleasure of dining in the dining room but rather have chosen (each time that I have visited) to dine in the bar area. Why have I made this choice? Well first the menu is exactly the same (including the specials for the evening) and two the environment doesn’t just remind one of Cheers but rather makes Cheers remind you of The Old Mill.

Its bar and parlor area is managed by its amiable and hospital bartender who introduced me (on my first visit) to the extremely entertaining Times article which became the subject of a previous post. The scene of this old world parlor is reminiscent of the time Jack Finney’s character falls into when staying at the Dakota, a time when the expressions on our faces meant more than the superficiality of the modern world’s hello. Though the regulars dominate the bar area and the conversations at times can appear exclusive, this crowd of Massachusetts dwellers is anything but exclusive and are always looking to expand their dialogue.

Now with this truly neighborhood feel, and I know that we throw that word around a lot here but this time is a time when that word is defined more than used, we cannot ignore the eating aspects of this establishment. Its menu is representative of the classic American restaurant featuring numerous fish items as well as an excellent burger. In my most recent visit I sampled the grilled salmon which was topped with a pineapple salsa and served with a saffron risotto. On another visit I enjoyed The Old Mill Burger and on more than one occasion have enjoyed their established wine list and excellent selection of local draft beers.

The Old Mill will remain as a local favorite for South Egremont but it should also be known to the rest of us who live outside of Massachusetts as at least one reason to venture outside of the culinary empire that is New York City to find an enjoyable and delicious meal. Terry Moore, its owner and chef, has created an excellent treat which is neither over the top for the wonderfully rustic feel of the old mill it is housed in nor is it too simple for a more sophisticated pallet, it is just right.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 3 Straws (can’t complain, its a good, classic meal).

Price: $$$traws, Expensive price (about $30 or an appetizer, main course, and a glass of wine).

Atmosphere: A community atmosphere, very welcoming. I cannot speak for the restaurant itself, but as the review describes its parlor scene is very much the definition of a neighborhood meeting place.

Overall: 3 Straws (If you are ever traveling on Route 23, through South Egremont this has to be on your list of places to stop to eat. It is a town favorite as well as a favorite for all of the New York weekenders).

The Details:

Website: n/a

Location: 53 Main St, Route 23, South Egremont, Massachusetts 01258

Phone: (413) 528-1421

Reservation: No Need (in the parlor at least).

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Sunday-Thursday: 5:00pm-9:30pm

Friday-Saturday: 5:00pm-10:00pm

Acqua: Real Italian pizza in the middle of the city that invented American pizza

Everyone has that quest that they go on in the town or city that they are from to find the superlative for their favorite food groups. One of those journeys for me was to find the one or two restaurants in New York City that offered what I considered to be the best Italian style pizza. Now it is important to define what I mean by Italian style, and I use it pretty loosely to mean thin crust pizza cooked in a brick, open flame, oven. The pizza produced from this cooking style cannot be enjoyed in the classic New York sense of the one hand fold over, rather this pizza sometimes even requires a fork and knife because its crust is just that fragile and thin.

In my search I have identified two places (both on the Upper West Side) that I feel have met my challenge and have risen to a level deserving of a joint superlative stating that Acqua and Nick and Toni’s (to be reviewed soon) have the best thin crust pizza in New York City. I invite our readers to suggest a competitor for them, but for now these are my two picks.

Now Acqua will be the subject of this review. I first introduced Acqua when reviewing Regional as a destination I would choose over Regional unless the weather would not permit the extra travel. That sentiment is still true as I now approach the Acqua review. That all being said lets begin the review:

Acqua is situated on the southwest corner of 95th street and Amsterdam. Its facade allows for both interior and exterior seating (a joy when the weather is nice). The restaurant’s design presents it as a large single room dining environment with a somewhat tightly packed bar at the entrance. The staff have always been extremely accommodating and I have never once had an issue with either the service or the speed of the restaurant. Acqua can only be considered as a truly authentic Italian restaurant. Do not visit Acqua if you are looking for the thicker type of pizza you can enjoy with a fold over and the use of only one hand.

As the menu demonstrates this is not just a pizza place. Though my go to section is the pizza section they also have a wonderfully simple yet delicious pasta selection, there is something to be said about a simple but well prepared rigatoni pomodoro.

Now I know that much of the rhetoric we have used here at Coffee Straws has revolved around how much of a neighborhood place a restaurant is, and I believe that is because the attribute of being a neighborhood place is something we highly value, especially in a place we feel has return value. Thus I will use that adjective again when describing the feel and environment of Acqua. From the Italian wines recommended by the staff to the always delicious and yet seemingly rustic pizza this place is welcomed addition to a street that has seen its fair share of restaurants go under.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 3 Straws (can’t complain, its a good meal).

Pizza: 4 Straws (We feel that the pizza deserves a separate ranking due to its deliciousness and authenticity).

Price: $$($)traws, Moderate/Expensive price (about $30 for an appetizer, pizza and glass of wine, but the pizzas are fairly sized and can be a meal just alone making the restaurant a moderately priced place at around $20 a meal).

Atmosphere: A community atmosphere, very welcoming. Its corner location allows for (when the weather is just right) an indoor/outdoor setup.

Overall: 3 Straws (Acqua very much resembles a neighborhood Italian restaurant and responds to that craving for Italian cuisine. Whenever I am in the mood for some good Italian cooking along with Italian wine, Acqua is my choice).

The Details:

Website: n/a

Location: 718 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10025

Phone: (212) 222-2752

Reservation: No Need.

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Weekdays: 4:00pm-11:30pm

Weekends: 11:00am-11:30pm

SAVOR: Closed

***STRAW GOSSIP***

We just got word that Savor, a restaurant in St. Louis, closed its doors this weekend. We received this email from the Cabaret at Savor:

Closing Was Sudden, Unexpected

I am writing to tell you that The Cabaret at Savor is closed.

The Cabaret at Savor presented its last show on Saturday, June 28. The 64-seat room opened as a cabaret in October of 2006, and  presented some of the top names in Manhattan cabaret, including Steve Ross, Maude Maggart, Paula West, Eric Comstock and Barbara Fasano, Mary Cleere Haran, Craig Rubano, Jeff Harnar, Barbara Brussell, John McDaniel and many others. It had also become a favorite venue for cabaret singers and musical theatre artists from St. Louis.

It’s a loss, for me personally and for all here who love cabaret. The room was a terrific cabaret space, and both the singers and the audiences liked its elegant and cozy design. Unfortunately, I learned just 48 hours prior that Savor, the restaurant, was closing over the weekend. I have been working with the building owners to keep the cabaret space upstairs open, but at this time that appears not to be an option. I am looking for a new space, and hope to have an announcement soon. My thanks to all the wonderful singers and musicians, to those who did sound and lights, and especially to our audience. You made it a great room.

Sincerely,

Jim Dolan, Producer

 

We also found the news at the Riverfront Times.

- Coffee Straws team

Island: Unimposing with more than a touch of genuine

Tucked within the bustling Madison Avenue between 92nd and 93rd street lies this very unimposing restaurant with a small sign that reads: Island. Despite its charming exterior however this is no “island” to be taken lightly. Within the elegance, snobbery, and elitism of the Upper East Side and its private oh I’m sorry “independent” schools, this restaurant stands out with its ability to cater to these difficult crowds while also actually producing a good meal. See I once attended one of those schools and have had the opportunity to eat in that area many times, most times however I have been disappointed with what was offered (cough “Sarabeths” cough). Now there are also gems on this same strip, like Vico, whose truffle menu is unbelievable. But the subject of this post is a second gem in that area, Island. Island is designed like many urban restaurants with its bar filling most of the entrance way, expanding into the restaurant as you walk further and further in. I know the Coffee Straws Team has been throwing around the terms “neighborhood” and “family” or “friendly” atmosphere but we really do enjoy places that exude that type of environment, Island is no exception. The servers are friendly and deeply understanding when you have dietary or allergy needs.

Now before continuing I must give some context, I was with a party of seven and we were there celebrating my sisters high school graduation. There were many dietary and allergy driven requests within our group and each request was followed through by our server including the answer to the question: from which animal did the cheese on one particular dish come from.

Overall the food was good. I ordered a rigatoni dish with Italian sausage and was very satisfied with not just the quality but also the proportions of ingredients. We also livened the event with two bottle of prosecco (Italian champaign). Now there is one concern for us “just-out-of-college” crowd and that is the prices. This is no cheap eats place, but one must remember the neighborhood in which it resides, the Upper East Side, therefore its $20-$30 price range makes more sense, especially considering that what you order will not disappoint. But given the prices this place operates with I would reserve it for the special occasions, such as a graduation dinner.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 4 Stars (The food is reminiscent of an elegant restaurant but with a neighborhood feel).

Price: $$$traws, Expensive (minimum $30-$40 for a two course dinner and a drink).

Atmosphere: Friendly and bustling (but can be packed at the bar/entrance).

Overall: Four Straws (Worth the price for special occasions and I have been told by regulars that the food has never disappointed).

The Details:

Website: http://islandnewyorkcity.com/index.html

Location: 1305 Madison Ave, Between 92nd $ 93rd, Manhattan, New York.

Phone: (212) 996-1200

Reservation: We did not need one for seven people, but it was a Wednesday night. For the weekend I might make one just to be safe.

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Weekdays: 12:00pm-11:00pm

Saturday: 11:30am- 11:00pm

Sunday: 10:30am- 10:00pm.

Regional: When the weekend brunch carries the weekly dinners

Regional Restaurant is the most recent tenant in a slew of failed restaurants to occupy the location of a once proud Famous Original Rays. In my estimation (and it is not a well researched one), Regional has lasted the longest of all the attempts save the original Rays Pizza. In its current form this restaurant offers a casual Italian experience with a touch of tapas style appetizers and a bunch of well designed pasta dishes. The menu is well thought out and designed to accommodate both the large portion of families in the Upper West Side who seek the traditional three course meal and the many students and young adults who venture south from Columbia University and other points, seeking more of a tapas experience. The atmosphere created in this Italian restaurant is similar to that of the previously reviewed restaurants on the Upper West Side, an neighborhood atmosphere. The staff is very friendly and the restaurant even boasts a communal table where groups of varying sizes can all share in a larger table while enjoying their dinner. In general the dinner is an enjoyable but not memorable experience. In fact what is memorable is that this is an Italian restaurant that doesn’t serve pizza. Perhaps to some that signifies a type of defiance that appears refreshing and new in the face of conformity. To me it reflects an undersized kitchen that is not well equiped for the needs of a true Italian restaurant. I’ve been to many parts of Italy and though the New York style of pizza is American, pizza (in its wonderful thin crust version) is definitively Italian.

Now this restaurant is more than just a dinner place however, they do a weekend brunch that in my observation draws a far larger crowd than the dinner does. Their brunch is nothing special and in fact comes with numerous frustrations due to cost cuts, but it has one saving grace that brings people (even me) back over and over again, unlimited mimosas! Once you order one ($6.00) mimosa, the staff will continually refill it as many times as you want. And I will be honest, you’d expect with a deal like that that the mimosas would be extremely watered down, and yet it is not the case with these at all. These mimosas are certainly well balanced. But on the other hand, many aspects of the brunch leave you unfulfilled. For example a table of two and a table of four both receive the same number (4) of mini-muffins when seated. I personally believe that when providing a sample a muffins there should be at least two of every flavor and at least two for each person. Worse than that, when my table ordered a second serving of muffins (to allow everyone to sample each flavor), we were charged ($6.00) and received the same number. Beyond these side notes, the food itself is not bad but is over priced for the quantity. In reality it is a breakfast/lunch masquerading as a brunch. The last problem with the brunch stems from the flexibility of the menu to accommodate different types of patrons. When the college kids come down to enjoy unlimited mimosas, they establish an environment that annoys and disrupts the families who are presumably there for the food. I have been a member of both types and over the past year have noticed a decrease in families there for brunch versus dinner.

Before getting into the ranking I will conclude by saying that despite my criticism I am a return visitor (I mean you can’t argue with unlimited mimosas) but I only go for dinner when the weather is too rough to make it the extra distance to Acqua on Amsterdam and 95th (to be reviewed, check back soon).

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 2 Straws (nothing special for dinner and its brunch items are disappointing).

Price: $$$traws, Expensive (minimum $30-$35 for a two course dinner and a drink).

Atmosphere: Casual and welcoming (but very noisy during brunch).

Overall: 2 Straws (the food is good and the brunch has its moments but overall there are better places to go).

The Details:

Website: http://www.regionalnyc.com/

Location: 2607 Broadway, between 99th & 98th street, Manhattan, New York.

Phone: (212) 666-1915

Reservation: No need. Open Table

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Monday- Wednesday: 5:00pm- 11:00pm

Thursday & Friday: 5:00pm- 11:30pm

Saturday: 11:00am- 4:00pm Brunch, 5:00pm- 11:30pm Dinner

Sunday: 11:00am- 4:00pm Brunch, 5:00pm- 10:30pm Dinner

Buceo 95: When a Tapas and Wine bar combine.

One of my favorite types of cuisine if not my favorite is the Spanish tradition of Tapas. Tapas Bars traditionally offer a variety of small dishes from which a table of say 2 or 3 choose about 5 to 6 different tapas for the table to share. There are many myths for where the tapas tradition originated from, among them and my favorite is the idea that the plate were originally provided to block fruit fly access to the glass of wine in between sips. What has developed since the early days is the care and attention given to what is on top of that plate, the tapa.

Tapas dishes can be hot or cold and can be meat or vegetarian. Some very traditional tapas include gambas ajillo (garlic shrimp), croquettes (deep-fried cylindrical pieces of anything from potatoes to chicken to codfish), albondigas (Spanish meatballs), and of course cheese plates including the very Spanish Manchego cheese.

Buceo 95 located on the Upper West Side delivers on the tapas tradition with the added bonus of being a wine bar on top of a tapas bar. The restaurant itself is very tiny and hides out on 95th street between Broadway and Amsterdam. The environment could not exude a more friendly and familial atmosphere with the tables close together and the south wall exposed to the street suggesting a continuation of the restaurants atmosphere onto the street itself. Though the tables are packed in and when full (which it appears to be many nights out of the week) it gets very loud, the ability to have an intimate dinner is not lost. The food itself is worthy of the tapas distinction and Buceo provides many of the traditional dishes I have come to expect when dining out. One dish in particular was the baby octopus grilled over a potato and olive puree. As a fan of grilled octopus I thought this dish to be done just right and with the added distinction of being presented over a very light and well mixed puree. Unfortunately we ordered one dish that I do not think stood up to the rest, which was their paella. I am a very big paella fan and was not to impressed with the tapas sized paella they served us. Paella should never be cooked or served in such a small pan and therefor cannot exist as a tapas, it goes against the definition of the dish itself. On the other hand I am a big fan of going against definitions and trying new things, but this time it didn’t work.

Before providing the ranking I should also mention Buceo’s commitment to wine and the extensive wine menu the offer. Though I went there for dinner and selected a rather delicious bottle of rose to accompany the dinner, I do see myself returning to Buceo solely for a wine tasting.

The Ranking (for explanation, see “Review Key”):

Food: 3 Straws (With limited options for tapas dinners in New York City this is a good addition).

Wine: TBA (for a future visit, look for the review soon).

Price: $$traws, Average ($15 a person gets four tapas dishes).

Atmosphere: Casual and welcoming (smiles and closely packed tables delivers the neighborhood feel).

Overall: 3 Straws (A solid tapas experience with great potential as a new member of the Upper West Side).

The Details:

Website: N/A

Location: 201 W 95th, between Broadway and Amsterdam, Manhattan, New York.

Phone: (212) 662-7010

Reservation: No need.

Dress: Casual.

Hours:

Daily: 5:30pm- 2:00am.